The power of Vitamin C
Angela Hodgkiss – Angelique Day Spa and Skin Clinic

Vitamin C is one of the few ingredients that actually has the ability to create biological change in the cells.  It is a potent skin antioxidant that protects and fights free radicals, will even skin tone and slow down melanin production, kick start the fibroblasts, stimulate DNA repair, repair barrier lipids minimising TEWL, reduce fine lines, scars and pigmentation and is anti inflammatory so great for acne. In the body it is required for tissue growth and repair, adrenal function and healthy bones, teeth and gums. Vitamin C can be found in our skin but our body steals it for other areas first. It is highest in the epidermal layer but ageing, sun exposure, UV lights, pollution and smoking all deplete supplies. Our body cannot produce its own Vitamin C so topical and oral intake is vital.  Being water soluble our bodies loses much of its VIT C in our urine. Vitamin C is a great product to use in the morning because it is stimulating and drains toxins faster which why it’s often called King of the day.

it is absolutely essential for the formation of collagen so in my opinion, treatments such as CIT, HIFU or radio frequency are a waste of time if you are not feeding the new collagen the treatments are creating.  Vitamin gives collagen the strength it needs.

Vitamin C is especially beneficially to sun damaged skin because it will increase depleted collagen supplies whilst concurrently decreasing and regulating elastin production . Elastin is over produced in photo damaged skin thus leading to ‘ropey’ looking skin. Vitamin C will limit damage caused by UV due to the antioxidant protection against free radicals. It cannot however absorb UV, so it not a sunscreen.

Optimum concentrations of Vitamin C is still a grey area.  I recently read an article (APJ) that suggested levels higher than 20% appear to have a reverse affect and absorption becomes less. So more is not always better!! Studies have shown that ingesting oral Vitamin C supplements can effectively increase vitamin C storage in the skin.  It has also been found that topical application of Vitamin C is 20 times more beneficial for the skin as it provides a more direct route. The stratum corneum however is a barrier so needling or rolling can help assist with deeper penetration.

Ascorbic preparations with a PH below 4 aids in transport of Vitamin C because it alters the skin natural Ph of 5.6 and creates pathways for absorption. Studies show Vitamin C when taken with Vitamin E has a greater effect than just C on its own.

There are a number of different types of vitamin C formulas and many more opinions on which one is best. Which one you choose is up to you and how your skin responds to them but here’s a summary of a few of them:

L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form and is generally considered by most as the champion of the Vitamin C formulas but there are challenges. It degenerates quickly with air, heat, light and sun exposure and has a lower PH so is more irritating. If you can find a solution that does not contain water it is less irritating because most of the inflammation caused is due to hydrogen ions generated by acid dissolving in water. The lower the PH the more effective and stable it also is. It is also water soluble.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Palmative – Magnesium Ascorbyl phosphate (map) is water soluble however it is also harsh on skin, not efficient in lower concentrations and unstable. It has been found to penetrate further into deeper layers.

Ascorbic Palmitate (ap) is a Vitamin C ester and is lipid soluble as opposed to water soluble so it can penetrate the skin more easily. It is much less irritating due to it being encapsulated in oil as a powder and activated by a serum. It acts as an anti inflammatory so good after peels and on sunburn and psoriasis.

Ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitoyl (atip) is fat soluble so less irritating and also more stable. Seems to be more effective than others at suppressing uv pigmentation at lower levels (as low as 3 percent). However it is a poor performer at penetrating skin.

Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate (sap) promotes collagen formation and is highly stable. Fights acne bacteria. However it’s newest of the ingredients so not alot is known yet.

If you want to try Vitamin C then here’s a selection of products Angelique Day Spa offers:

• Glymed Vitamin C cream – containing magnesium ascorbyl phosphate this cream will nourish, sooth, energise cell renewal, relieve redness and irritation. RRP $135

• DMK- Vitamin C Serum-containing 5% L- ascorbic Acid the strongest of all the vitamin Cs it will support the amino acids to produce collagen. RRP $159

• Sothys Cosmeceutique RX – Ultra-C Dermobooster –reduce signs of ageing, lighten hyperpigmentation, protect from environmental factors and smooth fine lines. Lactic acid and hyaluronic acid boosts the brightening and hydrating power of this serum.. Also may be beneficial for skins with fragile capillaries or rosacea. To use under moisturiser. RRP $95

• Intraceuticals Vitamin C booster – Especially for skin with signs of premature ageing, irregular tone and sun damage. Helps smooth, strengthen, and protect healthy skin with 3 synergistic forms of Vitamin C to benefit all skin types. Use under moisturiser. RRP $49.50

NOTE: IT SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR3 DAYS AFTER FILLERS AS IT BREAKS THE FILLER DOWN.

The power of Vitamin A

Angela Hodgkiss Angelique Day Spa

Vitamin A is a cosmeceutical which means it has the ability to create biological change in the cells.  Alongside Vitamin C it is the first ingredient I recommend for 99% of the clients I treat.

Vitamin A is the one ingredient absolutely necessary for cell regulation. Without it cells cannot function normally –  it a supreme regulator. Every single skin is utterly dependent on Vitamin A to maintain skin health. The paler or more sun damaged you are the more you deficient you are likely to be. A Vitamin A deficient skin is prone to acne, pigmentation, wrinkles and ageing. A Vitamin A rich skin is smoother, even coloured and radiant. Our body does not make vitamin A at all. The sun depletes vitamin A which is why people in the sun age faster.

Vitamin A has a molecule structure that’s tiny enough to get into the lower layers of the skin, where it finds collagen and elastin. It improves pigmentation, natural moisturising factor (NMF), prevents breakouts, strengthens outer layers, stimulates natural proteins, fibroblast activity, controls sebum for acne sufferers, supports skins immune system, improves fine lines, skin texture, tone and colour and hydration and is an antioxidant. Many (including me) consider it to be THE MOST IMPORTANT ingredient of all to prevent, restore, normalise damaged skin. It is important for healthy skin, teeth, bones, cell membranes, and vision. It is essential for your immune system. Vitamin D and A are needed to work together for either to be effective. Retinoids will benefit over 125 skin issues. Vitamin A also works well with hyaluronic acid. Look for products where Vitamin A is at the top of the list. Beware of a clash of ingredients in products such as AHA with Vitamin A. AHA has a very low PH and retinoids have a neutral PH. When combined the retinol becomes ineffective.

Types of Vitamin A derivatives

• Tretinoin is prescription only and has powerful anti ageing effects but also powerful side effects with skin irritation and birth defects.
• Retinol is the purest ingredient of all the Vit A derivatives but it is not stable and usually has an active lifespan of 6 months. Once past this product will oxidise and turn brown. It can be still be irritating for some people. It is a precursor of Tretinoin so therefore once absorbed the body will convert it to Tretinion. Contrary to popular belief it can actually thicken the dermis and epidermis but mostly importantly thin the stratum corneum. It works well with AHAs in treating sun damage (AHAs are still superior in exfoliating) but cannot be used at the same time because AHA neutralises Retinol efficiency. Not everyone reacts well at first to Retinol, however all cells have a receptor for Vitamin A but some are damaged. Therefore it takes time and slow introduction to avoid irritation. The irritation is because the Vitamin A is initially sitting around the outside of cell but eventually it will be recognised and received. It’s best to wait 15 mins after washing face to avoid irritation. Don’t stop use as skin will just become more deficient in Vitamin A. One week to reset is fine. Finally Retinol will break down in sunlight so only use at night. Avoid during pregnancy.
• Retinyl Palmitate was developed as a non prescription ester which was more gentle than Retinol and proven effective in rejuvenating old skin. It is more stable than retinol and longer shelf life of 18 months.

If you want to discover the power of Vitamin A for yourself book in for a free consultation today.  At Angelique we have a range of products to chose from.

Sources Dr Klinman, Dr Des Fernandes Author of Vitamin A Skin Science, Sally Hunswick Professional Beauty, APJ

ACNE

THIS IS COPY OF OUR FREE EBOOK FOUND ON OUR FACEBOOK PAGE.  YOU CAN ALSO PURCHASE OUR SECOND EBOOK FOR ONLY $5.99 FULL OF HELPFUL INFORMATION, INGREDIENT RECOMMENDATION, SALON TREATMENTS AND SPECIAL OFFERS ONLY WITH THE SECOND EBOOK.

Acne…what do we know
Well bad news first up. There is NO cure. Even Accutane only has a 66% cure rate. HOWEVER it ABSOLUTELY CAN be MANAGED.

If you’ve experienced acne, then it’s pretty likely that everyone from acquaintances to your elderly relatives has dished out well-meaning advice on how to get rid of it. From Great Aunt Maud saying you just need to wash your face to your neighbour telling you about their friend who gave up four food groups, it can feel like everyone has an well intentioned opinion on how to improve the health of your skin.

Time for some quick acne facts from an expert skin clinician: the truth is, acne is caused by a cycle of interconnected biological factors. If you understand each one of these factors, you’ll understand you CAN actually BREAK the cycle.

But first, seeing as I mentioned Accutane let me explain why there is NO way I would ever consider this as a first option.

Anything that has over 40 documented side effects INCLUDING NEUROLOGICAL EFFECTS, DEPRESSION, FETAL DEATH AND BIRTH DEFECTS should make anyone realise not to take this medication lightly. Accutane is like a nuclear bomb for acne, however it also affects the ENTIRE BODY and Can create PERMANENT changes in some patients. Occasionally there is no option but to prescribe it, but thankfully there are other options that work before needing to go down this dangerous medications route.

What is Acne 
Acne is caused by four pathological processes working together:
1. Excessive keratosis (too many cells that cause blockages)
2. Excess sebum (that makes the pores sticky)
3. Bacteria
4. Inflammation
All four of these processes must be present to produce acne. Therefore logic (and evidence) dictates, that if we interrupt just one of these processes, acne cannot form. It really is that simple!!!!!!!! With the right products, treatments, and possibly some lifestyle adjustments, you can control your acne symptoms. You just need to be committed to make a change!

How do you make your acne do a disappearing act? 

It starts with the right products!

Now I’m going to share my first secret with you for free. Well it’s not really MY secret but just the best piece of information you are going to ever be given to help with acne. Topical Vitamin A is your number one best friend . There are loads and loads and loads of derivatives Of Vitamin A out there in the marketplace. In fact, even Accutane is a derivative of vitamin A (isotretinoin) which is why it clears the acne symptoms. vitamin A works because it is a SUPREME regulator.
That means if your skin is over producing sebum – it regulates it.
Over producing cells – it regulates it.
So that’s TWO processes in the acne cycle already being addressed with just one ingredient!!!!! But like any recipe you can’t make anything without several ingredients.

Bacteria, Baby! 
Next we want to deal with one of the other processes present in an acne skin: bacteria.

Well the thing about bacteria is that it thrives in an oxygen free environment AND has a very healthy appetite for sebum. Bringing us back to the first two processes of acne?
1. Too many cells
2. Sticky sebum
Well these two things are going to result in a blockage called a micro comodone which begins in our pores. This micro comodone is causing an anaerobic environment whereby it becomes easier for the bacteria to survive and flourish.
So science has two ways of attacking this process.

1 we can unblock the pores by decreasing the excess skin layers
2 we can create oxygen on the skin to make the environment less inviting for the bacteria to stick around. .
How do we unblock the pores and create oxygen on the skin? Check out our second ebook for all our tips and tricks!

Inflammation 
The final process in the acne cycle is inflammation. But how does skin become inflamed? Bacteria is to blame!
Bacteria changes sebum into an acid that irritates the skin. This causes more cellular productions and more impaction, and that’s when we start seeing inflammation.  Our bodies naturally have an arsenal of weapons to fight inflammation, including the mighty, fighting macrophage cells! The macrophage specific to skin is called the Langerham cell.
Macrophages are dendrite cells, meaning that they have long projections which grab onto things that aren’t meant to be there! These cells are called into the area when they’re needed. Their job is to munch away all the inflammation and calm things down in your skin. When there’s inflammation in the skin, we want as many of these cells as we can get, and
we want them fast! We need an ingredient that’s going to attract loads of these powerful cells to the area and control the inflammation. And we have one! In ‘Ebook Two’ we’ll discuss that fantastic ingredient and where to find it!

The Journey Begins 
The journey to acne-free skin begins with a single ebook. This ebook is a basic beginner’s guide to acne causes and its management.

My second ebook will give you a more in depth review of acne, how to manage it, it’s aggravators, product solutions, discount offers, and treatment options that you can do at home or in salon.

GLYCATION – Sugar and why its ageing us

Angela Hodgkiss – Angelique Day Spa and Skin Clinic

There’s been so much in the media lately about Glycation but what does it actually mean?

Firstly, two of the biggest assaults on skin are glycation and oxidisation. Oxidisation is primarily from sun damage whereas glycation is from diet. Glycation is basically when a sugar and protein (collagen and elastin) meet and this can result in end products called (AGES). AGES result is tissue atrophy and loss of function. It affects the collagen and elastin fibres in the skin as well as the dermal glycoproteins and glycosaminoglycans which affects cell growth, fibroblast production, enzymatic activity etc. Glycation is always occurring, however, due to the build up of damage in underlying skin structures it can take time to manifest visually.

Glucose and Fructose will attract and attach themselves to protein molecules and this will eventually become irreversible. Collagen needs flexibility but sticky glucose turns it stiff and skin becomes yellowed. On the other hand it also affects the elastin but causes sagging. AGEs are present in the skin and then with UVA damage (oxidisation) it becomes amplified. We do have enzymes found naturally in our body that will help break down the methylglyoxal (a by product in the glycation process) but we lose these enzymes as we age. Diabetics who already have a difficult problem in processing the glucose find their skin prone to glycation skin issues such as neuropathy (nerve damage) and scleroderma (auto immune disease).
Its not just the skin that is affected by AGES, in 2007 a report by Simm et al. conclusively showed the oxidative conditions that arise from AGES lead to cardiovascular disease and in 2011 Srikanth et al’s report showed how the AGES are instrumental in the development of Alzheimers disease. This is built on the fact that we already know AGES are responsible for cataracts, macular degeneration, diabetic neuropathy, artery disease and skin ulcers.

Glycation end products wouldn’t be so bad if they just floated around in the blood but they are attracted to cells by RAGES on the cell walls. The AGES bind to cell RAGES. Rages are receptors that are part of the immune system and when they activated by AGES cellular inflammation occurs which is a major factor in ageing as well as inflammatory diseases such as asthma, arthritis, alzheimers, neuropathy, vascular and loss of dermal volume.

The bad news is skincare will not make much of an impact in treatment of glycation without a change of diet and exercise. However in skincare we can look for ingredients such as tocopherol, white willow, licorice root, horse chestnut, olive, green tea and oat beta glucan and SUNSCREEN and in natural ingredients we can look for Chamomile, hawthorn berry, dokudami, blueberries, pomegranate extract, carnosine and grape leaf which have been found to show promising results in controlling AGES. Vit b6 and carnosine have also shown evidence in inhibiting AGES.

Reducing the consumption of processed foods and high dry heated foods (eg roasts) can assist as they induce the production of AGES. So dust off that slow cooker. Avoid cigarettes as they contains high levels of glycotoxins that get into the blood stream and induce the formation of AGES and are of course the major factor in lung cancer. These cigarette induced AGES are harming the skin in the same way as well as reducing oxygen supply. Finally EXERCISE because about 70% of blood glucose is consumed by muscle which means any weight bearing exercise will help.

Laboratories already use autofluorescence readers to detect AGES and hopefully it won’t be long before we can look forward to this technology being readily available in salons too.  There are drugs available to reduce glycation that are primarily hypoglycemic in nature and used to treat diabetics.
Sources Terry Everitt APJ volume 25 (2015) and APJ 2016

Inflammation leads to inflamm ‘ageing’
Angela Hodgkiss- Angelique Day Spa and Skin Clinic
Inflammation often thought of in terms of infection or a wound, but it’s actually the body natural response mechanism to protect itself and is an essential part of the immune system. It is an aspect of all age related diseases and from a lifetime accumulation of molecular damage. Inflammation itself is designed to heal the body, however when exaggerated, the body produces too many inflammatory messengers and the result is disease.
Inflammation always comes with heat, increased blood flow resulting in redness and erythema, swelling and pain and loss of function due to structural necrosis. Inflammation is either acute or chronic. Acute is the initial response by the body to initiate healing. It is the body’s way of sending support to the wound site by increasing plasma and leukocytes to eliminate the pathogens. This is normal inflammation and resides after a few days. Chronic inflammation is prolonged where the inflammation process cascades and leads to a variety of diseases seen in the skin or other body systems. This type of inflammation is referred to as a silent inflammation as there are no overt signs as in acute.
Testing
One way to measure how much chronic inflammation we have going on is via a blood test measuring C-reactive Protein (CRP). Another more precise way of measuring is measuring the arachidonic acid (AA) which is the building block of pro-inflammatory eicosanoids. Also measured is iseicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), which is the building block of the anti-inflammatory eicosanoids. It is the balance of these two fatty acids in the blood that will give an indicator of inflammation present that is causing a slow death in our cells.
Skin
Chronic disruption of the skin barrier will cause chronic inflammation. The barriers lipid layer keeps the skin protected and from drying out. The dermis provides the depth and volume of our skin. It is rich in varied cells and structures that keep it in a homeostatic balance. Inflammation causes disruption and loss of structural integrity.
Inflammation is controlled by mediators. A major mediator released by cells is histamine. This causes vasodilation and increased vascular permeability. Other mediators are prostaglandins and leukotrienes. Prostaglandins are fatty acids that encourage the blood vessels around inflammation to dilate, making it easier for white blood cells and plasma to enter (hence redness and swelling). Prostaglandins also stimulate nerves that send pain messages to the brain.
Protection
Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients to calm and protect the skin are: Arnica, Centella asiatica, Epidermal growth factors, Ergothioneine, Glucosamine HCI, Glycine soja, Omega 6, Peptides, L-ascorbic acid, Liquorice, green tea, resveratrol.
A low inflammatory diet will include foods rich in vitamin A (kale, spinach, carrots, liver), C (broccoli, citrus), E (olive, walnut and wheat germ oil) , Bioflavonoids( citrus, berries, tea, red wine dark chocolate, sea buckthorn) and Polyphenols (pomegranate, dk choc, berries, tea)
Barrier repair ingredients
Cholesterol, ceramides, linoleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid are all found in the skins barrier and will help repair and reduce inflammation. Hyaluronic acid based products such as aloe vera, oleuropein, vit B, and zinc sulphate will also help with inflammation.

Source -Terry everitt, apj

5 reasons why you cant lose weight

Angelique Day Spa and Skin Clinic

1   Stress- When we are under stress our body is churns out the stress hormone, adrenalin, which is preparing our body for the flight or fight response. Blood supply are diverted from processes such as digestion, to our muscles instead. It causes the body to use glucose, not body fat as its fuel. It’s why we crave sugar when we are stressed. When stress is prolonged, the body then starts to make another hormone called cortisol, which breaks muscles down. Having less muscle then slows down our metabolism. Studies have found that people with high cortisol levels tend to put on weight around the middle.

2 Sex hormones– some people will gain up to 3kg premenstrual due to retained fluids caused by rising oestrogen levels. Levels of progesterone drop at this time which makes matters worse as it is a diuretic that allows us to get rid of excess fluid and as reducing our anxiety levels. If bloating or sore breasts occur to you, try cutting out coffee and replace it with herbal tea for one cycle and see if symptoms subside. It is thought a substance in coffee called methylxanthines contribute to the symptoms.

3  High insulin- made in the pancreas, this hormone move sugars from food into our cells. It transports glucose to the liver and muscles where it is stored for energy. What’s left over goes to fat cells. Too much refined foods lead to excess insulin as it causes spikes in blood sugar levels. Adrenalin will also cause a spike. When a crisis occurs adrenalin increases causing your body to think there’s a danger which spikes the blood sugar. If you don’t use this extra glucose your body just produced (sitting at a desk – rushing a deadline) then more insulin is manufactured to deal with the excess. If you can’t lose weight check your blood glucose levels and insulin with GP.
4 Nervous system– our brained are wired for survival which can disrupt how we burn fat at times. The nervous system runs our body behind the scenes. It regulates everything. It has two parts the sympathetic (SNS) which is fight or flight and the parasympathetic (PNS) which is our rest and repair system. They should work in balance but most of us exist in state of SNS meaning we are constantly in fight or flight response which causes excess adrenalin leading the body to only use excess glucose as fuel and not body fat. PNS on the other hand helps restore calm, balance and allows functions such as digestion to occur. This is why our skin which suffers under stress always looks so much better when on holidays. Best ways of stimulating PNS is longer exhalation learnt in tai chi etc.

5 Emotions-we have a bad day we eat to make ourselves feel better.

Source: Dr Libby Weaver (nutritional biochemist and author of accidently overweight)